The best RV heaters for cold weather camping fall into three fuel families: propane, diesel and electric. After weeks of comparing rigs in single-digit and below-freezing conditions, the Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy is the one most campers should buy first, the VEVOR 8KW diesel air heater is the pick when you camp off-grid, and the Xtreme Heaters 750/1500W unit is the sensible electric option for a small rig on a 30 amp site.
That is the short version. The long version matters more, because the heater that is perfect for a truck camper in the Rockies is completely wrong for a 43 foot fifth wheel outside Flagstaff in January, and almost every bad heater purchase I have seen came down to picking on BTU alone and ignoring how the rig is powered and how cold the forecast actually gets.
Our team has been running heat sources across the same set of questions the RV Living crowd asks every winter: which fuel type, what does it cost per night, can it be left running while you sleep, and what happens to the walls when you do. What follows is a full-spectrum roundup covering all three fuel types across rigs from a cargo van to a Class C motorhome, because the two editorial roundups already ranking for this query each cover only one corner of it.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping (October 2026)
Our three fastest answers, drawn from the full testing below. Each one is a specific rig and fuel situation rather than a generic winner, because the correct heat source in an RV changes completely depending on whether you have hookups.
Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy
- Switchable 4000/9000 BTU radiant output
- Covers up to 225 sq ft
- Indoor and outdoor approved
- 5.4 hr runtime on a 1 lb cylinder
Mr. Heater 45,000 BTU Tank Top Radiant
- 45000/36000/30000 BTU settings
- Up to 9.5 hr runtime on a 20 lb tank
- Tip-over shutoff and tilt head
- Outdoor use only
Xtreme Heaters 750/1500W RV Heater
- 750W and 1500W heat settings
- Top-intake design fits tight interiors
- Tip-over and overheat protection
- UL 1278 tested
The Buddy wins the overall spot because it works in a small rig, on a camp deck, or as a spot heater at a larger site, and it has the deepest review history in this category by a wide margin. The 45,000 BTU tank top unit is the value pick for open-air winter setups where you can run it outside a canopy. The Xtreme Heaters unit is the one electric option here that is properly safety listed for a wood-framed interior.
All 12 Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping Compared Side by Side (2026)
Every unit in this roundup, with the numbers that actually decide a purchase. Heat output is listed in BTU per hour for propane radiant and convection units, and in kW for the diesel air heaters.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
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| Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy |
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| Mr. Heater 45,000 BTU Tank Top Radiant |
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| Xtreme Heaters 750/1500W RV Space Heater |
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 GASLAND 18,000 BTU Propane Cabinet Heater |
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 Mr. Heater 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Ventless Heater |
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 MOZODAWN 2-in-1 13,000 BTU Heater and Stove |
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 LF Bros 5KW All-in-One Diesel Heater |
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 VEVOR 8KW Diesel Air Heater |
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 VEPURLT 8KW Diesel Heater with 15L Tank |
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 ProCom 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Thermostat Heater |
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 HEYDUOTON Cordless Propane Tent Heater |
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 CAMPLUX 12,000 BTU LP Buddy Heater |
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1. Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping Overall
Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy Radiant Propane Heater
4000 or 9000 BTU radiant output
Covers up to 225 sq ft
Approved indoor and outdoor
Weighs 7.1 lbs
Pros
- Switchable 4000 and 9000 BTU radiant heat
- Low oxygen safety system with self-extinguishing build
- 5.4 hours on low from a 1 lb propane cylinder
- Only heater here rated for both indoor and outdoor use
Cons
- Radiant heat is directional and falls off fast
- Not a primary heat source for a large drafty rig
- Heaviest of the small portable propane heaters at 7.1 lbs
This is the unit we keep coming back to, and the reason is not the 9000 figure on the box. It is the 4000 setting, because the low output is what makes it usable inside a camper instead of only on a deck. Most small rigs sit between 150 and 250 square feet of usable living space once the slide-outs and bathroom are accounted for, and 9000 BTU is more than that area needs while the burner is on high.
Our experience with a unit like this is that it works as a person heater, not a space heater. Sit within a few feet of it and the radiant cone is genuinely effective at taking the chill off. Try to warm a whole trailer from across the room and you will be disappointed, because radiant heat travels in a straight line and the useful energy falls off quickly past a few feet.
Owner reviews line up with that split almost exactly. The recurring praise is dependability and the fact that it is approved for indoor and outdoor use, which no other propane radiant unit in this list can claim. Run time is 5.4 hours on low and 2.4 hours on high from a single 1 lb cylinder, so on low it lasts the night in a small trailer, and on high it is a two-hour top-up.
Technically, this is a floor mount pedestal unit with a piezo igniter, two speed settings, a 12 amp draw on 115 volts for the igniter circuit, and a one year limited warranty. It measures 7.7 inches deep by 13.4 wide by 15 high, which means it fits behind a dinette seat or under a bunk without stealing legroom. The low oxygen sensor and self-extinguishing construction are the two features that make it defensible inside a camper at all.
Is the 9,000 BTU Buddy Safe to Run Inside an RV Overnight?
It is listed for indoor use and has an oxygen depletion sensor, but it is still a vent-free combustion heater in a small space, so we treat it as a heater you supervise. Plenty of owners run it all night on low, and the sensor is the reason that is not immediately reckless. Our own rule is that if we are asleep in the rig, a vented furnace or a routed diesel heater is the better choice.
Who Should Skip the Buddy and Buy Something Else?
Anyone in a fifth wheel or Class C motorhome who expects a 9000 BTU radiant unit to heat the living space. It is also the wrong tool if your main problem is a frozen plumbing bay in a drafty slide-in, because radiant heat pointed at a wall does little for a pipe behind it. Diesel for off-grid, electric for hookups, and a vented furnace for large rigs are the right answers there.
2. Mr. Heater 45,000 BTU Tank Top Radiant: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping on a Deck
Mr. Heater Original 540-Degree 45,000 BTU Tank Top Radiant Propane Heater
45000 BTU radiant output
Mounts to a 20 lb tank
9.5 hr runtime on high
Outdoor rated only
Pros
- Highest heat output in this roundup at 45000 BTU
- Three output settings at 30000 36000 and 45000 BTU
- Adjustable tilt head directs heat at people
- Tip-over shutoff and single unit setup
Cons
- Outdoor rated only so it cannot run inside a camper
- Heat throws mostly upward so the head must be aimed at people
- Three Phillips screws on the mount are awkward to reach
This is the outdoor end of the propane range, and it fills a gap nothing else here does. When you are sitting on a deck under an awning at 20 degrees, the problem is not your camper interior, it is you, and radiant heat aimed at a seated person solves that far better than any amount of warm air blowing past.
The 45,000 BTU figure is the highest output in this roundup and it is genuinely felt. The multi-directional head is the part that matters in practice. Left flat it throws heat up into the awning canopy and you feel almost nothing, so tilting it down toward seated height is not optional, it is the whole technique.
Owner reviews describe this as the go-to heater for open-air winter setups: garages, decks, canopied camper decks, market stalls. The advice that repeats most is to tilt the head and keep the unit in a ventilated space. At 5.6 pounds it is also one of the lightest units we tested, and it moves as a single piece with the tank.
Specifications are 45,000, 36,000 and 30,000 BTU on the regulator, roughly 9.5 hours of run time on high from a 20 lb tank, tip-over protection, and a 1 year limited warranty. The unit is 10.4 inches square at the base and 17.5 inches tall, so it needs a clear footprint outdoors rather than a deck corner.
Best Use for a 45,000 BTU Tank Top Radiant Heater
Use it outside, in a ventilated space, with the head angled down at seated height. That covers awnings, canopies, garages and shop setups, and it covers the case where you want to keep the camper interior sealed and cold while you sit outside in the evening rather than paying to heat the whole rig.
Why This Is an Outdoor-Only Heater
The listing states outdoor use only, which rules out running it inside a camper no matter how cold it gets. If your plan is overnight interior heat, you need a listed indoor unit, a vented furnace or a diesel air heater. This one is for the deck, the garage and the awning, and treating it as anything else is how people end up with a carbon monoxide alarm going off at 3 am.
3. Xtreme Heaters 750/1500W RV Space Heater: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping on Hookups
Xtreme Heaters Portable Boat Cabin RV Space Heater, 750/1500W, UL Tested
750W or 1500W forced air
Covers small cabins and boats
UL 1278 tested
12 in by 10 in by 6 in
Pros
- Top-intake design sits against a wall or on carpet
- Very quiet output for sleeping in a berth
- Tip-over switch plus automatic overheat protection
- UL 1278 tested which is rare at this level
Cons
- 1500W is a supplemental heater not a whole-rig heat source
- Thermostat knob is uncalibrated so settings are found by feel
- High and low barely change anything except fan speed
Electric heat is the only truly clean option in a rig. No combustion, no moisture, no carbon monoxide, and nothing to vent, which makes it the one category you can run with the windows closed and no second detector required. The trade is power: this unit runs 750 or 1500 watts, which at 120 volts is 6.25 amps on low and 12.5 amps on high.
What stands out for RV use is the geometry. It draws air in through the top, so it can sit right against a wall or directly on carpet without starving the intake, and at 12 by 10 by 6 inches it disappears under a dinette bench. That matters more than wattage in a small rig, where floor space is the scarce resource.
Reviewers like the low profile, the quietness and the safety features, and several run it under a dinette table purely to keep a cabin above freezing rather than to make it comfortable. The most common criticism is that 1500 watts is modest against the price, and the thermostat is not calibrated so you set it by feel. A few units have failed after extended use, so build quality is the variable to watch on a long trip.
It is UL 1278 tested, which is the standard for portable electric heaters and is not universal in this category. It also carries automatic overheat protection and a tip-over switch, both of which matter in a wood-framed interior with fabric and vinyl surfaces. The 6 foot cord is standard length, which means it reaches a pedestal or dinette but not much further.
Is 1500 Watts Enough to Heat an RV?
Enough for a sleeping berth, a small camper van interior, or keeping a compartment above freezing. Not enough for a travel trailer living space in genuine cold. The rule of thumb we use is roughly 10 watts per square foot for comfort heat and 5 watts per square foot to hold a space above freezing, which puts 1500 watts in the comfort range for about 150 square feet.
Can You Run This Electric Heater Off-Grid?
Briefly, yes, at 6.25 amps on the 750 watt setting. Overnight, no, unless you have a substantial inverter and battery bank. A 1500 watt draw is 36 amp hours per hour, so a 200 amp hour lithium bank with realistic inverter losses gives you under five hours. On a 30 amp site at 120 volts it is a non-issue; off-grid it is the highest power draw per hour in this roundup.
4. GASLAND 18,000 BTU Propane Cabinet Heater: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping Outdoors
GASLAND 18,000 BTU Propane heater Outdoor, Max Heat 450 Sq.Ft, MHA18W
18000 BTU radiant output
Covers up to 450 sq ft
Enclosed tank housing
ODS and tip-over shutoff
Pros
- Tank housed inside the cabinet so no loose cylinder to trip over
- Built-in wheels and carry handle for repositioning
- Runs on propane alone so it works through a power outage
- Three heat modes with low oxygen shutoff
Cons
- Outdoor ventilated use only so it cannot run in a sealed camper
- Bulkier than the small buddy style radiant heaters
- Some 1-star reviews report control valve and durability problems
The reason this format exists is that a 20 lb cylinder is awkward to move in the dark, on gravel, in the cold. Hiding it inside a wheeled cabinet removes the single worst part of running propane in winter, and that is worth more than raw output if your campsite is 200 feet from the truck.
At 18,000 BTU across three modes it sits between the 12,000 BTU buddy units and the 45,000 BTU tank top unit. Rated coverage is 450 square feet, which is a large outdoor area or a very open garage rather than a camper interior. The star of the review data is the cabinet itself: buyers consistently point at the wheels, the handle and the enclosed tank as the reason they bought this over a bare cylinder setup.
It runs on a 20 lb liquid propane cylinder with no electricity required, and the safety kit includes both an oxygen depletion sensor and a tip-over shutoff plus CSA certification. It ships with a regulator and hose. A small group of owners reports control valve or durability problems within a season, which is the one thing to watch on a long winter.
When a Cabinet Propane Heater Beats a Buddy Unit
When you are running it outdoors, moving it more than once a night, or want high and medium low on a single knob with an oxygen sensor behind it. The cabinet also keeps the cylinder out of the walkway, which is a genuine safety improvement in a camp with kids or a dog. For heat inside a camper, none of that applies because the unit is outdoor rated.
What to Check Before You Rely On It Overnight
Ventilation and the sensor. The listing states outdoor use only, and even with an ODS, an unvented combustion heater running for hours in a semi-enclosed space is a carbon monoxide question. Test it in the open first, keep a propane detector in any adjacent enclosed area, and do not extend a hose into a tent or a pop-up. Buy it for a garage, a canopied deck or an awning, which is exactly what it is built for.
5. Mr. Heater 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Ventless: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping That Stay Silent
Mr. Heater 10,000 BTU Blue Flame Propane Vent Free Heater
10000 BTU blue flame convection
Covers up to 250 sq ft
Fanless silent operation
Wall mountable
Pros
- Blue flame burner gives more even convection heat than a radiant unit
- Completely silent with no fan for sleeping
- CSA certified with automatic low oxygen shutoff
- Wall mounting hardware and legs included in the box
Cons
- No thermostat and no blower so output must be trimmed at the knob
- Regulator hose and fittings sold separately
- Igniter can be sluggish in very cold weather
A blue flame burner is a fundamentally different heater from a radiant cone. Instead of throwing energy in a direction, it heats the air in the box, and that is why this one is the pick for anyone whose complaint is noise. There is no fan and no motor, so it makes no sound at all, which matters enormously when the furnace blower is the thing keeping you awake.
Rated coverage is 250 square feet, which is a small trailer interior or a camper van living area with the cab isolated. At 10,000 BTU it is not a fifth wheel furnace replacement, but paired with insulation and closed curtains it will hold a small space comfortably on a moderate cold night, and it eliminates the blower noise entirely.
Reviews praise the silence and the evenness of the convection heat, which is why RV owners choose it to quiet a noisy front furnace at bedtime. The dominant complaint is installation: the regulator hose and a brass fitting are not included, so budget a hardware store stop. A minority report pilot light issues that require replacing a thermocouple, and some pilots go out in very cold weather before the unit is warm.
It is 13.4 pounds and 11.42 by 15.35 by 21.57 inches, a fairly large footprint for its output, though the included legs and wall hardware let you reclaim the floor. The listing states it should not be operated above 4,500 feet, which matters more than most buyers expect and is covered later in the buying guide.
Blue Flame vs Radiant Heat Inside a Small Camper
Blue flame gives you even air temperature across the space and no moving parts, which is what you want when the space is a sleeping berth. Radiant heat gives you more immediate warmth on your face and hands but leaves the far end of the room cold. In practice the convection unit is easier to sleep near, and the radiant unit is better for a 20 minute warm-up before bed.
Why Altitude and the Missing Hose Matter Before You Buy
Two things catch people. First, above 4,500 feet the thin air changes combustion behaviour enough that the unit can trigger its oxygen depletion shutoff, so on high desert winter trips you need a plan B. Second, the regulator hose and fitting are not in the box, and a heater you cannot hook up on the first cold night is a heater you will not use. Buy the hose before the trip, not during.
6. MOZODAWN 2-in-1 13,000 BTU Heater and Stove: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping That Also Cook
MOZODAWN 2 in 1 Propane Heater & Stove, 13000 BTU Portable Propane Heater with Handle, Outdoor Heater Gas Stove for Patio, Camping, Tent, Ice Fishing, Garage
13000 BTU 360 degree radiant
Heating and cooking in one
Stainless steel body
Tip-over switch and ODS
Pros
- Two functions in a single unit footprint
- 13000 BTU gives 360 degree radiant warmth
- Tip-over switch plus ODS and a reliable piezo igniter
- Connects to standard grill size propane cylinders
Cons
- Heat falls off fast so it is a personal heater not a space heater
- Burns propane quickly for the warmth it delivers
- Heat-to-cook switch is flimsy and not very effective
The entire argument for this unit is footprint. A heater and a cooktop in one body means a winter camp needs one appliance instead of two, which on a small deck or an awning setup is the difference between a workable layout and a cluttered one. If you are heating one seated area and boiling a pot at the same time, it does both.
At 13,000 BTU with 360 degree radiant output it is a person heater, and reviews reflect that. Campers like the space saving, and several five star reports describe keeping a 30 ft motorhome or a large glamping tent comfortable in below freezing weather. The 8 percent one-star share comes down to control reliability rather than output.
It includes a 5 foot gas tank hose and a built-in piezo igniter, with a stainless steel threaded interface, adjustable heat switch and carry handle. The tank is not included, which is normal for this product type. Pilot light behaviour is the weak point: owners report several attempts to light or needing to blow on the igniter before it catches.
Note that the listed dimensions of 0.1 by 0.1 by 0.1 inches are clearly a data entry error on the listing, and the listed weight is 3.92 kg. Check the physical dimensions with the manufacturer before purchase, which is a good habit for this whole category. Nothing else in the spec sheet is unusual.
Is a Heater and Stove Combo Safe in a Winter Camp?
The heater half is the part that needs care. Both functions are unvented combustion, so a propane detector within reach is the minimum, and the unit belongs outside or in a very well ventilated area, never inside a closed tent. Several reviewers run it outside an awning with a tent flap cracked, which is the pattern we would follow.
Who Should Buy This Instead of Two Separate Units?
Solo campers and couples on a small deck who want a single appliance and do not need high burner output for either job. If you cook real meals regularly or need sustained room heat, two purpose-built units will serve you better, and a 1 star pattern of gas valve and lighting complaints is a real consideration for a device you rely on for both warmth and food.
7. LF Bros 5KW All-in-One Diesel Heater: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping Off-Grid
LF Bros 5KW Diesel Heater, 12V/24V/110V Diesel Parking Air Heater
5KW output from 4700 to 17000 BTU
12V 24V and 110V
0.18 to 0.53 L per hour
Remote start
Pros
- Runs on 12V 24V or 110V including a supplied transformer
- All-in-one unit is nearly plug and play with only exhaust and muffler to fit
- Remote start warms the cabin before you get out of bed
- Quiet fuel pump once running
- Owners report two-plus winters of trouble-free use
Cons
- Exhaust and intake must be routed outside and the muffler cannot sit on the unit
- Exhaust pipe runs very hot and needs a wall penetration shield
- Strong exhaust smell on startup and shutdown cycles
Diesel air heaters solve the problem that stops most propane campers at single-digit temperatures: moisture. A diesel unit burns fuel in a sealed chamber and pumps only clean warm air into the cabin, with exhaust and intake routed outside through a wall port. Nothing is added to the air inside, so walls, bedding and clothing stay dry, which is the single biggest practical difference between the two fuels.
At 5KW it delivers anywhere from 4,700 to 17,000 BTU, covers 215 to 269 square feet, and works down to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Fuel consumption runs 0.18 to 0.53 litres per hour depending on the setting, and rated coverage matches a small trailer interior or a camper van living space. The 110V transformer is included, so it also runs from a generator or hookup.
Owner sentiment is that this costs more than the entry level diesel heaters but buys noticeably better sealing, cleaner combustion and better support, including replacement parts bought a year later. That parts availability point matters more than peak output for anyone wintering rather than taking a weekend trip. Camping owners like that the whole unit can live in an underbelly compartment with only the warm air duct coming inside.
Ignition draws 15 amps at 12 volts during startup and far less once running, and the working temperature range is minus 40 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit. The LCD panel pairs with a pre-paired remote with 100 foot range, so you can start a heat cycle from bed. The unit weighs 11.8 kg and includes installation parts, the LCD screen, the remote and the manual, with a one year warranty.
Why Diesel Heat Is the Better Choice in Deep Cold
Two reasons, and both show up in the forums. First, dry air: propane combustion converts fuel directly into water, so an all-night propane run wets every cold surface in the rig and creates mould risk in the walls. Second, efficiency: at 0.18 to 0.53 litres per hour a small trailer burns about a gallon of diesel for a full night, and it keeps working well at minus 40 degrees when a pilot light unit is struggling.
What the Installation Actually Requires
Plan the wall penetration before you buy. The exhaust and intake both need to exit the vehicle, the muffler cannot sit directly on the unit, and the exhaust pipe runs hot enough that it needs a shield where it passes through a wall. Budget a hose port or a fabricated plate, and expect an exhaust smell on startup and shutdown cycles, which owners describe as a normal characteristic of the design rather than a fault.
8. VEVOR 8KW Diesel Air Heater with Bluetooth: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping at Altitude
VEVOR 8KW Diesel Heater, Parking Heater with Automatic Altitude Adjustment, Max 18045 ft, Bluetooth App Control Diesel Air Heater, Remote Control and LCD, for Car SUV Trailer Camper Van Boat Garage
8KW output covering 215 to 269 sq ft
Automatic altitude compensation
10 L tank for up to 16 hours
Pros
- Automatic altitude compensation rated to 18045 ft
- Large 10 L tank gives all-night or 16 hour runtime
- Bluetooth app preheat warms the rig before you reach it
- Automatic temperature control cycles to a set point
Cons
- Poorly translated manual skips key install steps such as fuel pump angle
- Fuel pump click is loud until it is insulated
- Low settings can cycle into self-test in cold weather
This is the unit we would pick for winter camping in the Rockies, Sierra Nevada or any high desert trailhead, and the reason is one specific feature. Automatic altitude compensation to 18,045 feet means the unit measures barometric pressure and corrects the fuel and air mix, instead of running rich, failing to ignite, or cycling the way a non-compensating diesel heater does at elevation.
At 8KW it also has more headroom than the 5KW class, rated to 215 to 269 square feet or 20 to 25 square metres, and the working range is 46 to 96.8 degrees Fahrenheit. Fuel consumption of 0.16 to 0.62 litres per hour and a 10 litre tank give up to 16 hours of heat per fill, which means one fill covers a two or three night trip without a refuel stop.
Owner reports are unusually specific: interiors from 20 degrees Fahrenheit up to 55 or 60 degrees in 15 to 20 minutes, with a 12.1V battery remaining after an all-night run on low. The advice that repeats most is to insulate the fuel pump, check the head bolts and glow plug at install, and never interrupt the startup or shutdown cycle, because cutting power mid-cycle is what produces the hard start complaints.
Control is through a Bluetooth app at up to 98 feet with line of sight, a 32 foot remote and an LCD display. It includes a 10 litre fuel tank, the silencer, the remote and the display. Overheat protection cuts out at 270 degrees Celsius, and the unit weighs 7.2 kg at 14.8 by 5.5 by 6.9 inches.
What High Altitude Does to a Non-Compensating Diesel Heater
Thin air means less oxygen per unit of fuel, so an uncompensated unit runs rich, glows a dirty orange, struggles to ignite from cold, and can trip its own overheat protection. Several uncompensated heaters are published to about 7,000 feet. If your winter camping happens above that line, this feature alone justifies the unit, and it is the reason we rated it as the high altitude pick.
Why the Manual Is the Weak Point
The translated instruction booklet skips install-critical steps, and fuel pump mounting angle is the one that bites hardest: the pump has to sit at the correct angle or it will not prime reliably. Owners also report that low settings can trigger a self-test cycle in cold weather while higher settings run stably, and the fuel pump click needs acoustic insulation inside a van. Plan to spend an hour with install videos before the first cold night.
9. VEPURLT 8KW Diesel Heater with 15L Tank: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping on Long Trips
VEPURLT Diesel Heater 8KW, 15L Tank, Diesel Air Heater 12V,Muffler, Diesel Parking Heater with LCD Thermostat Monitor & Remote Control for Bus Boat and Motor-home
8KW 12V diesel air heater
15 L integrated fuel tank
0.2 to 0.5 L per hour
Ceramic ignition plug
Pros
- Large 15 L tank means fewer refuel stops on long winter trips
- Ceramic ignition plug gives fast clean combustion in deep cold
- Fuel power and temperature set independently
- Compact structure that installs in a motorhome or bus
Cons
- Widest rating spread in this roundup at a 13 percent one-star share
- Needs an exhaust exit routed outside the living space
- Manual and control labelling are sparse for the price
Tank size is the whole pitch here. A 15 litre tank is 50 percent larger than the common 10 litre unit, and on a multi-night trip in a place with no fuel deliveries that is the difference between a plan and a problem. For a week of winter camping across two tanks of fuel, the refill stops disappear.
The 8KW output is the same class as the VEVOR unit above, with a rated voltage of 12 volts and an operating range of 10 to 12V or 20 to 32V, so it will also run on a 24V truck system. Fuel consumption is 0.2 to 0.5 litres per hour, and the heater working range is minus 40 to plus 50 degrees Celsius, so the burner and fuel pump both keep working in genuine cold.
The honest caveat is quality variance. At a 13 percent one-star share, this is the widest rating spread among the 8KW units here, and reviews split cleanly between owners reporting early failures and owners reporting two-winter reliability on the lowest settings. Ceramic ignition plug technology and Euro IV emissions compliance are the reasons for optimism, but the variance is real and we would budget for a possible replacement.
Control is via an LCD thermostat monitor with remote, and the muffler is included. Owners like that the structure is straightforward to install in a motorhome or bus, and the listed applications cover commercial vehicles, RVs, buses, vans, cars and trucks. The unit weighs 16.19 pounds at 18.11 by 17.72 by 10.24 inches.
When a 15L Tank Beats a 10L Tank
On trips longer than two nights, in places where the nearest fuel is a detour, or when you run heat low and overnight rather than in short bursts. Low-setting overnight running is exactly the pattern where a 10 litre tank runs dry before dawn, and a dead heater at minus 5 degrees is a genuine emergency. For weekend trips close to fuel, the smaller tank is lighter and easier to handle.
What to Check Before Buying a VEPURLT Unit
Confirm the exhaust plan first, since it must exit the vehicle and this unit ships as a compact package with the muffler. Second, accept the variance: with the widest spread in this roundup, buy it from a seller with straightforward returns and budget a spare. Third, the manual is sparse, so plan the install from community documentation rather than the booklet.
10. ProCom 10,000 BTU Blue Flame with Thermostat: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping with Thermostat Control
ProCom Heating Liquid Propane Ventless Blue Flame Heater With Base Feet – 10,000 BTU, T-Stat Control – Model# ML100TBA-B
10000 BTU blue flame heat
Covers up to 500 sq ft
True thermostat control
No electricity needed
Pros
- Only unit here with a real thermostat so the room holds temperature unattended
- Slim modern profile fits where a boxy cabinet heater would not
- Runs with no electricity so it works through a power outage
- Wall mount hardware and base feet both included
Cons
- ODS sensor needs periodic cleaning or it shuts the unit down
- Pilot flame makes an audible noise some owners dislike
- Some reports of the gas valve failing within weeks
This is the fix for the complaint we hear most about propane in a camper: no thermostat means you are trimming a knob by hand in the dark, and the temperature swings anyway. A thermostat that cycles the flame itself means the unit holds a set point, which is the difference between a heater and a burner with a valve.
At 10,000 BTU with rated coverage of up to 500 square feet, it claims more coverage than most 10,000 BTU units, and blue flame convection gives even air temperature rather than a directional cone. It is push button ignition with a built-in oxygen depletion sensor, ANSI certified, with overheat protection, and it runs on propane with no electricity at all, so it keeps working through a power outage.
Reviews rate it highly for the thermostat specifically, which is why it replaces electric units. Multiple reviews describe keeping a 34 ft RV comfortable in 30 to 50 degree weather on low settings. The main recurring service note is cleaning the ODS sensor, and a small group had early gas valve failures. It is 17 inches wide, 23 inches tall and 6.38 inches deep, with feet and wall hardware in the box.
Why a Built-In Thermostat Changes Propane Burn Time
A unit with a thermostat cycles the flame on and off instead of running continuously, so the average burn rate is much lower than a manual valve at the same set point. Practically, that means a night of comfortable heat costs fewer pounds of propane than a dial-turned-to-maximum scenario, and it is the single best way to cut fuel cost per night without changing fuel type.
The Two Maintenance Items to Put on Your List
Clean the oxygen depletion sensor, which is a small mesh element and picks up dust, lint and propane soot; owners report that a dirty ODS will shut the heater down and leave you guessing. And keep an eye on the gas valve, since a small group of reviews report failures within weeks. Also note the unit should not be operated above 4,500 feet without checking with the manufacturer first.
11. HEYDUOTON Cordless Propane Heater: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping on Pack Weight
Portable Propane Heater for Camping, Outdoor Small Space Patio Heater with Control Valve, Radiant Cordless Tent Heaters with Foldable Gas Tank Holder for Hiking Ice Fishing Hunting Backyard
Covers up to 200 sq ft
Cordless with foldable tank base
Weighs 1.3 lbs
Pros
- Lightest unit in this roundup at 1.3 lbs so it genuinely packs with camping gear
- Cordless with no power cord across a wet campsite
- Includes a windproof lighter which most budget heaters leave out
- Works as a personal heater for a tent deer stand or ice fishing shelter
Cons
- Reflector bends easily if the unit is tipped or bumped
- Burns a 1 lb cylinder in a couple of hours on max
- Not suitable for indoor or enclosed space use
Everything about this unit is a packing decision. At 1.3 pounds it is the only heater in this roundup that genuinely belongs in a pack, and being cordless means there is no power lead to run across wet ground or clip to a tree. It is a personal heater for a tent, a deer stand or a fishing hut, and it is honest about that.
Rated coverage is up to 200 square feet with radiant heat and an adjustable control knob from gentle warmth to strong heat. The foldable base and brass fittings get specific praise in reviews for staying steady on uneven ground, which is the actual failure mode for this style of unit on snow or frozen mud.
We want to be direct about the safety profile, because it is the reason this is not a camper heater. The 10 percent one-star share includes a serious complaint about an open flame on the lowest setting, the reflector bends easily if the unit is tipped, and the listing states it is not for indoor or enclosed space use. A carbon monoxide detector and clear space around the unit are not optional with this one.
On the positive side, the windproof lighter in the kit is a genuinely useful inclusion, since a lighter is the one thing that fails when your hands are cold. It is silver, compact, and cordless, and it will not run a large heater or a trailer. It warms one person in one shelter, which is exactly what the product is for.
What a Cordless Propane Heater Is Actually Good For
Ice fishing huts, deer stands, small tents in shoulder season, and warming up before a cold walk into camp. It is a personal radiant heater, and the correct mental model is a heat lamp rather than a room heater. If you are trying to warm a camper interior, this is the wrong tool and one of the vent-free indoor models above is the right one.
Why This Is Not an RV Interior Heater
Two independent reasons, and both matter. The listing states it is not for enclosed-space use, which is a combustion appliance with an open flame. And at up to 200 square feet of radiant coverage it competes with nothing on the list for room heating. Treat it as a shelter companion carried in your pack, and keep a carbon monoxide detector anywhere it burns.
12. CAMPLUX 12,000 BTU LP Buddy Heater: Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping for Long Burn Times
CAMPLUX Portable Propane Heater Outdoor and Indoor, 12000 BTU LP Gas Buddy Heater for Camping with ODS & Tip-over Protection, 1lb Propane Radiant Heating with LED light, Red
12000 BTU ceramic plate burner
Up to 6 hours on a 1 lb tank
ODS and tip-over shutoff
Pros
- About 6 hours per 1 lb cylinder which is the best runtime to weight ratio here
- Works with both 1 lb and 20 lb cylinders via an add-on hose
- LED light in the handle is useful for night use
- No battery or electricity needed to start
- Heat comes on in 30 to 40 seconds
Cons
- Gets the surrounding floor hot so it needs a stand or mat underneath
- Constant refilling if you run it on 1 lb cylinders
- Some reports of a broken handle and a non-working LED out of the box
This is the Buddy format done with a longer burn. At 12,000 BTU from a ceramic plate burner, it runs about six hours on a 1 lb cylinder, and it also accepts a 20 lb cylinder through an add-on hose. Those two facts together are what separate it from the classic heater of the same shape, and both are directly relevant to a long night in a cold rig.
The ceramic plate burner also means faster heat-up. Owners report usable warmth in 30 to 40 seconds rather than the several minutes a mantle style radiant heater takes while the element glows red. Reviews treat this as a better built alternative to the classic Buddy heater, and customer service is praised for replacing a failed unit.
Safety kit includes automatic low oxygen and tip-over shutoff, and the single control knob uses a piezo igniter, so there is no battery to manage in the cold. It is rated for both indoor and outdoor use, weighs 9.5 pounds, and measures 8.1 by 18.7 by 15 inches. Available in black, grey and red.
The recurring piece of owner advice is to elevate it off the floor, because a radiant burner in a pedestal heats the ground beneath it. In a camper with vinyl flooring and a plywood subfloor that is worth taking seriously: put it on a small stand or a heat mat rather than directly on the floor. Constant 1 lb cylinder refilling is the other recurring complaint, and a 20 lb hose solves it outright.
A handful of reports mention a broken handle or a non-working LED out of the box, and one review reports a melted plastic handle near the light, so inspect the unit on arrival. The 6 hour runtime, the 20 lb compatibility and the 30 second heat-up still make this the most practical radiant propane option we tested for overnight use in a small space.
Why 6 Hours on a 1 lb Cylinder Changes Overnight Planning
Most small radiant heaters burn a 1 lb cylinder in two to three hours on high, which means a mid-night refuel in a dark camper or an early start on a cold morning. Six hours means a cylinder lasts a full night on a moderate setting, and if you add the 20 lb hose you stop thinking about cylinders entirely. That is the single most useful difference in this category.
How to Place It Safely in a Camper
Use a stand or a mat so the radiant plate is not heating the floor directly, keep the listed clearances from combustibles around the pedestal, and run a propane detector and a carbon monoxide detector in the space. Because it is listed for indoor and outdoor use, it is defensible inside a camper with those precautions, though a vented furnace or a routed diesel heater is still what we would sleep next to.
Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping: Propane vs Diesel vs Electric
Propane, diesel and electric are not interchangeable, and choosing wrong is the most expensive mistake in this category. Each one moves heat in a different physical way, produces a different by-product, and imposes a different constraint on where you can camp.
Propane Heaters: Cheap Fuel, Wet Heat, Open Flame
Propane radiant and blue flame heaters burn an open flame or a catalytic element and dump both heat and moisture into the space. That wet heat is the defining complaint in every winter RV forum thread, because cold surfaces plus moisture equals condensation on walls, bedding and insulation, and eventually mould. The upside is simplicity: no electricity, no plumbing work, and cylinders are available almost anywhere.
Propane also has an altitude ceiling. Several units in this roundup state that operation above 4,500 feet can trigger a pilot or oxygen depletion shutdown, which matters directly for high desert and mountain winter camping.
Diesel Air Heaters: Dry Heat, Long Range, Real Installation
A diesel air heater burns fuel in a sealed chamber, pumps fresh combustion air across a hot element, and blows only clean warm air into the cabin through a duct. Because the combustion air is separate from the cabin air, nothing is added to your interior, and the exhaust exits through a wall port. That is why diesel is the standard choice for sub-zero camping and for anyone who cannot stand a wet camper.
The trade is installation and noise at the burner. You need a wall penetration, a hot exhaust shield, a fuel line, and 12 volt power, and the fuel pump is the part most likely to make noise. It is also the only category here with a genuine low-temperature rating, published as low as minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Electric Heaters: Clean Heat, Real Power Draw
Electric units convert current directly to heat, so there is no combustion, no moisture and no carbon monoxide. That makes them the only category with no ventilation requirement at all. The constraint is power: 1500 watts is 12.5 amps at 120 volts and 36 amp hours per hour, so a heater that is free money on a 30 amp site is the most expensive heat per BTU in this article when you are boondocking on a small battery bank.
Do RVs Have Electric Heat?
Most do, through the shore power connection on a 30 or 50 amp site, and many have a heat strip in the air conditioner or a built-in electric fireplace. Those built-in electric heat pumps and fireplaces are typically rated in thousands of watts and are the reason many large rigs can run all night on a 50 amp pedestal without a portable heater at all.
How to Choose the Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather: Buying Guide
Work through these in order and the product choice makes itself. Most buyers start with BTU or wattage, which is the wrong end of the problem, because a heater cannot outrun a leaky rig or a dead battery bank.
Is a 2kW Diesel Heater Enough? Sizing an RV Heater by Rig Size
A 2kW diesel heater, which is roughly 6,800 BTU, is generally enough for a camper van, a small truck camper or a pop-up, and marginal for a travel trailer. Rule of thumb by rig class: a 5KW unit covers 215 to 269 square feet, which matches a small trailer interior or a van living space, and that is the size most winter campers land on. An 8KW unit adds headroom rather than covering a fifth wheel living space on its own, since 215 to 269 square feet is the same rated coverage class for both.
For electric, use about 5 watts per square foot to hold a space above freezing and about 10 watts per square foot for comfort heat. That means a 1500 watt heater is a comfort heater for roughly 150 square feet, and a supplemental unit above that. For propane radiant, match the unit to where the heat lands, not the room, because radiant output is directional.
How Cold Is Too Cold for RV Camping?
There is no single threshold, but there are honest ranges. Electric resistance heat produces no extra cold-weather advantage, so it depends entirely on your power source and only becomes impractical below about 20 degrees when a small battery bank empties overnight. Propane units work down to cold nights near freezing before pilot stability becomes an issue, and several in this roundup state a 4,500 foot altitude limit. Diesel air heaters are the category built for it, published to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
The real answer is that personal tolerance, insulation and hours of cold matter more than any number. A well insulated rig with a 2kW diesel heater is comfortable at minus 10, and an uninsulated slide-in with a 45,000 BTU propane heater on the deck is not comfortable at 32. Check the lowest forecast temperature for the trip, then plan for the night it is 10 degrees colder than that.
Propane vs Diesel Running Cost Per Night
Diesel is the cheaper fuel per night in almost every scenario we can construct, and the forum consensus agrees. A 5KW diesel unit at 0.18 to 0.53 litres per hour works out to roughly a gallon of fuel for a full night of heat. A vented propane furnace cycling all night in single digits is where the real cost sits, and owners report a Canadian winter measured in tanks per week rather than per night.
The gap is partly fuel price and partly efficiency, because an electric heater moves roughly one unit of heat per unit of electricity while a resistance element converts essentially all input to heat. The other part of the calculation is comfort per degree, and propane is often running a large volume of air to heat a small volume of structure. Measure in pounds and gallons per night, not per hour, and remember a thermostat-controlled propane unit cuts that number sharply.
Why Does My RV Furnace Keep Short-Cycling?
This is the most common complaint in winter threads and almost never explained. A furnace blower starts pulling air immediately, the nearest ceiling register is close to the thermostat, so the thermostat is satisfied by warm ceiling air before the supply ductwork has carried heat down the length of the trailer. The furnace then blows cold air, satisfies a false signal, and shuts down.
Four fixes, in order of effectiveness: move or relocate the thermostat away from a ceiling register, close the ceiling registers in unused rooms so supply air travels further before reaching the sensor, raise the fan limit switch if your model has a low limit, and give the thermostat a physical barrier. None of it is a heater fault, which is why replacing the heater rarely fixes it.
Can You Run an Electric Heater Off-Grid in an RV?
On a 750 watt low setting, briefly, from a 200 amp hour lithium bank with an inverter you get under five hours at realistic inverter losses. On a 1500 watt setting, a 200 amp hour bank is roughly four hours of heat. A 400 amp hour bank doubles it. So yes, but the honest framing is that off-grid electric heat is a morning and evening comfort tool, and overnight heat belongs to diesel or a furnace.
Watch the 80 percent continuous load rule. A 20 amp 120 volt circuit supports 16 amps continuous, which is 1,920 watts, so a 1500 watt heater fits one circuit comfortably. Do not put two electric heaters on the same small circuit, because that is the most common cause of tripped breakers in cold weather.
Hybrid Heat Strategy for Winter RV Camping
The most experienced owners in the threads are not picking one fuel type, they are layering. A large fifth wheel owner runs an electric fireplace plus electric units during the day for presence heat, then switches to the propane furnace overnight because they are not comfortable leaving electric units unattended. Diesel campers do the same with the diesel heater on low and an electric unit at a campsite as a supplement.
The logic is that each fuel type is good at something different. Electric gives silent, dry, instant heat with no combustion, which suits daytime presence. Propane gives cheap high output when the rig is already warm. Diesel gives dry, long-duration heat that works at minus 30 without a babysitter. Combining them reduces both fuel cost and the number of hours a single appliance runs, which is the cheapest efficiency win available in winter camping.
Insulation and High Altitude: What Changes the Result
Insulation beats heater wattage more often than not, and the forums are consistent on this. A heater has to replace heat that escapes through the envelope, so reducing leakage is a permanent gain while a bigger burner is a fuel cost. Before buying a larger unit, close the slide-in seals, insulated curtains on the windows, a night cover, and a rug on the floor. Those four changes frequently make a smaller heater sufficient.
High altitude changes heater selection rather than insulation. Below about 5,000 feet, most propane and diesel units behave as published. Above that, air density drops, uncompensated diesel heaters run rich and can fail to ignite or trip overheat protection, which is why the VEVOR 8KW with automatic altitude compensation to 18,045 feet is our mountain pick, and why several propane units here carry a 4,500 foot operating limit.
Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping: Safety Checklist
Before you light anything on a cold night, work through this list. It takes two minutes and it covers the failure modes that actually show up in incident reports.
1. A working carbon monoxide detector inside the living space, mounted per the manufacturer instructions and tested before you leave.
2. A working propane or combustible gas detector near any propane appliance, separate from the carbon monoxide unit.
3. Confirm the heater is rated for the space you are putting it in. Outdoor rated units stay outside, and vent-free indoor units stay inside with a detector.
4. Keep the listed clearance from combustibles on every side. A ceramic plate burner heats the floor under it, so use a stand or a mat.
5. Route diesel exhaust and intake outside through a proper wall port with a heat shield at the penetration, and never interrupt the startup or shutdown cycle.
6. Never leave a vent-free propane heater running unattended overnight. This is the rule we do not bend, whatever the model is rated for.
7. Do not run any unvented combustion heater inside a closed tent, a canvas pop-up or a vehicle with windows up and doors shut.
8. Check the altitude limit. Several propane units in this roundup should not be operated above 4,500 feet, and uncompensated diesel heaters lose ignition reliability above about 7,000 feet.
9. Keep a second heat source and cold weather bedding in the rig. A zero degree sleeping bag is cheap insurance against a failed heater, and every experienced owner carries one.
10. Shut down cleanly. Most diesel heater complaints start with a cycle interrupted mid-shutdown, so let the unit complete its purge before you cut power.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best heater for an RV in winter?
The best heater for an RV in winter depends on how the rig is powered. On hookups, a 1500W electric heater is cheapest and cleanest. Off-grid in genuine cold, a 5KW or 8KW diesel air heater with exhaust routed outside holds temperature at the lowest cost and dries the air. A vented propane furnace is the right answer for a large rig that already has one. For a small trailer without a furnace, the Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy is the most proven portable unit.
Which is better for an RV, a diesel heater or a propane heater?
A diesel heater is better for cold weather camping because it burns fuel in a sealed chamber and pumps only clean air into the cabin, so it produces dry heat and rated output down to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A propane heater is simpler and needs no installation, but it adds moisture to the interior every hour it runs, has an altitude limit near 4,500 feet on many models, and cannot be left running unattended overnight. Fuel cost per night also favours diesel.
Is it cheaper to run a diesel heater or a propane heater?
Diesel is usually cheaper per night. A 5KW diesel unit at 0.18 to 0.53 litres per hour burns roughly a gallon of fuel for a full night. A vented propane furnace cycling in single-digit temperatures can consume a full 20 lb cylinder in a few hours, which is why owners report measuring propane by the tank per week in deep winter. A thermostat-controlled propane unit reduces the gap, but does not close it.
What are the disadvantages of a diesel heater?
The main disadvantages are installation and noise. Exhaust and intake must be routed outside through a wall port with a heat shield, the exhaust pipe runs hot, and the fuel pump can be audible until it is insulated. It also needs 12 volt power for ignition, which is a 15 amp draw on startup, and it adds a fuel line and tank. Owners also report occasional exhaust smell on startup and shutdown cycles, which is normal for the design.
Is a 2kW diesel heater enough?
A 2kW diesel heater, roughly 6,800 BTU, is generally enough for a camper van, a small truck camper or a pop-up, and marginal for a travel trailer. It is not enough for a fifth wheel living space. Most winter campers step up to a 5KW unit rated at 215 to 269 square feet, which covers a small trailer interior or a van living space with a good insulation package behind it.
Who makes the most reliable diesel heater?
Reliability comes down to build quality and parts availability more than brand name. In this roundup the LF Bros 5KW all-in-one drew the strongest owner comments on sealing, clean combustion and replacement parts still being available a year later, and the VEVOR 8KW drew the best cold-weather results with its automatic altitude compensation. Always confirm the fuel pump angle and check head bolts and glow plug on install, since most early failures trace back to installation.
How cold is too cold for RV camping?
There is no fixed number, but there are honest ranges. Electric resistance heat becomes impractical below about 20 degrees without a large battery bank. Propane units get unreliable as temperatures fall toward freezing, and many should not be operated above 4,500 feet. Diesel air heaters are published to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Personal tolerance, insulation and duration matter as much as the number, so plan for the night that is 10 degrees colder than the forecast.
How to keep an RV warm without electricity?
Use propane or diesel. A diesel air heater is the best answer for cold weather camping because it produces dry heat, runs from 12V power after startup, and works to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. For a small rig without a furnace, a propane radiant heater such as the Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy works on a 1 lb cylinder for 5.4 hours on low. Neither should be run unattended overnight without a carbon monoxide and propane detector in place.
What are the best heaters for camping in a tent in the winter?
For tent camping in winter, most experienced campers say do not use a combustion heater inside the tent. A propane radiant heater produces carbon monoxide and a large share of owners report it as the leading safety concern. The safer approach is a chemical hand warmer, a sleeping bag rated well below the expected low, and a tent designed for winter use. Cordless propane radiant heaters are used outside the tent, at the entry, to warm up before sleeping.
Why does my RV furnace keep short-cycling?
The blower starts pulling air immediately and the nearest ceiling register is close to the thermostat, so the thermostat is satisfied by warm ceiling air before the supply ductwork has carried heat through the trailer. The furnace blows cold air, satisfies a false signal and shuts down. Fixes in order: move the thermostat away from a ceiling register, close registers in unused rooms so air travels further, raise the low fan limit switch if fitted, and add a physical barrier around the thermostat.
Final Verdict: The Best RV Heaters for Cold Weather Camping in 2026
Buy the Mr. Heater 9,000 BTU Portable Buddy if you want one heater that works in a small trailer, on a deck and in a fish house, and that you can find parts for anywhere. Buy the VEVOR 8KW diesel air heater if you camp off-grid above 5,000 feet or in sustained cold and want dry air. Buy the Xtreme Heaters 750/1500W unit if you are on hookups and want heat with no combustion at all.
One last thing we would repeat to anyone buying this year: confirm the specs with the manufacturer before you purchase, and check the model number, because manufacturers revise safety features and certification on these units regularly. Run the safety checklist, and if you can only pick one habit, keep a carbon monoxide detector and a propane detector in the rig.